I’m going to let you in on a little secret.
In southern Victoria, not far from Wilsons Promontory, is a campsite called Bear Gully. It’s said that Bear Gully in Cape Liptrap Coastal Park is where you go when the Prom’s Tidal River is booked out over summer, as it always is.
That probably sounds unfair but, if swimming in crystal-clear water without the threat of hazardous rocks and ropes of seaweed is your thing, Bear Gully doesn’t compare. But if you like to take long, lazy beach walks, rock-hopping at low tide for kilometres on end, and inspecting the marine life that dwells in the shallow rock pools, this campsite 160km south-east of Melbourne is an amazing, affordable option.
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Managed by Parks Victoria, Bear Gully was, once upon a time, completely free. But a few years ago, Parks Victoria implemented a sweeping change in which all campsites under its jurisdiction that were previously free required upfront payment. If the facilities were upgraded to match, a camping fee would be reasonable. But when all that’s on offer is a long-drop dunny and a single bore-water tap for the entire campsite, it’s understandable that a lot of people bemoan the situation.
Sadly, this is the case with Bear Gully. But while the facilities are a letdown in comparison to the fees to camp there, the prime location on Waratah Bay (the campsite is literally behind the sand dunes), the bush walks, campsites set amongst eucalyptus trees, and the natural beauty more than make up for it.
It should go without saying that all campsites are unpowered. They are suitable for caravans, camper trailers, tents, and B and C-class motorhomes (A-class rigs would be a struggle). You’ll need to be self-sufficient. Bring your own firewood, food and water. The nearest town is Tarwin Lower, a 30-minute drive away. And if you bring it in, take it out, including your rubbish. Bins are not provided and dogs are not allowed. A 3km-long graded gravel road leads to the campsite off Walkerville South Road. It is suitable for all vehicles.
While swimming in the beach is made difficult by the rocks and seaweed, a cove near the access track to the beach is a relatively safe option, though the waves are quite large and the beach is unpatrolled. A better bet would be to take the 10-minute drive to Walkerville South Beach. ‘Spectacular’ is one word to describe this beach. ‘Amazing’ does it justice, too.
Wildlife spotting is another reason to visit Bear Gully. Wombats, koalas, blue-tongue lizards… all manner of Aussie fauna is on display here.
ATTRACTIONS
Nestled in south Gippsland, Cape Liptrap Coastal Park is a peninsula overlooking Bass Strait. Windswept and wild, this region was named after John Liptrap, a London-based friend of Lieutenant James Grant, who sighted the peninsula in December 1800 from the survey ship HMS Lady Nelson.
Bear Gully and Cape Liptrap Coastal Park have just enough to keep the explorer in you satisfied. Be sure to check out the Cape Liptrap Lighthouse. While the first lighthouse for Cape Liptrap was established in 1913, the current lighthouse was erected in 1951. Built of concrete, the lighthouse can be found off Cape Liptrap road. It’s an easy walk to the lighthouse from the car park and a pleasant way to spend an hour or two.
Or why not take the short walk along the beach at nearby Walkerville to the ruins of the Walkerville lime kilns? In the late 19th century, about 80 men dug limestone, worked the kilns and bagged lime here. When demand for lime dropped off in 1926, the kilns were closed.
Finally, try the 6km Point Smythe Walk, which winds through coastal teatree and banksia to the beach at Point Smythe, a jagged edge of land with Andersons Inlet on one side and Bass Strait on the other.
BACK AT BEAR GULLY
Returning to Bear Gully after a day exploring Cape Liptrap, spend the evening on the beach with a sundowner, some nibbles and good company. Afterwards, light a fire in one of the communal fire rings, spot some nocturnal wildlife, and enjoy the sound of the waves so close to your van.
Bear Gully and Cape Liptrap really are worth exploring, especially when the more-popular Wilsons Prom is booked out but, truthfully, even when it’s not. They have their own special something to offer. Being so close to the Prom, why not call into Cape Liptrap and park the van at Bear Gully as part of a wider exploration of the south Gippsland region?
Cape Liptrap is about 160km south-east of Melbourne via the South Gippsland Highway.
No, pets are not allowed.
Yes, in communal fire rings. Bring your own firewood.
Facilities are limited to drop toilets and a single bore water tap.
Visit http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/cape-liptrap-coastal-park/things-to-do/bear-gully to book your campsite in advance (mandatory; park rangers visit each evening) and for general information, including site fees.